The Moseley rose from the ashes of the Dublin Hotel a couple of years ago, however we hadn’t crossed their threshold until this very visit. Immediately it impressed with its refit – gone was the dark and moody setting of before, and instead we have space, light and a touch more refinement. The restaurant area downstairs was particularly pleasant as you may pick up from the photos, while upstairs broadened out, spilling onto the deck where, not surprisingly, most people were gathered.
The menus reflect a much more modern approach too. While the upstairs ‘bar’ menu looks just like any other pub, it’s the details that impressed. A parmi? Yes, but with panko crumb and manchego cheese. The squid gets a chilli lime mayonnaise and pickled cucumber. There are a few pizzas too, and they don’t miss out either with the roasted lamb sporting pumpkin, labneh and dukka.
As for the restaurant, it reads beautifully with some great variety and little creative twists. We won’t dwell on this, you can read it for yourself, but I will have the twice baked Gruyere souffle, 14 hour roasted lamb shoulder, and the buttermilk panna cotta. Thank you very much.
However it was burgers we were here to check out. So let’s move on.
Their bar menu features just one burger in the mains, slightly different to their stable-mate, the Holdy which we were at a few weeks back. But one great burger is all you need, right? Sneaking into the starters though we have a plate of three sliders which sounded very interesting indeed, so in the spirit of full exploration, we added these onto the order for good measure. No, really, it’s ok. No need to thank us.
Chicken and pulled pork sliders with beetroot and horseradish slaw, apple jam. $14
They certainly read beautifully, with a mix of flavours and textures that my minds mouth and stomach enjoyed immediately upon reading it.
Luckily, or thankfully, the real life version delivered nicely too.
The mix of textures, flavours and even colours made these a delight to eat. They encapsulate just what you want in a slider – a good hit of flavour that delivers everything it’s got in a couple of bites. It’s not meant to be a small version of a big burger. It’s job is to be like a drunk friend at a club. They run into you, yell something excitedly for a few seconds, and then disappear back into the crowd.
Again, they have gone with Wagyu, rather than something more mainstream, and the Barossa bacon is a nice addition having enjoyed their wares in the past. It all reads quite simply, but also full of promise as a few quality items is all you need for a great burger.
When it arrived, it also impressed with its sheer size. Although yes, size isn’t everything, if you are asking $22 it needs to deliver, and giving more food for your money is a good place to start.
It also looked great, with the colours of the roll melding with the bacon, cheese, beef, lettuce and sauce poking their noses out the side to form a drool inducing sight.
The flavours of it were big too, with everything being cranked up in their own way. It was all very rich, with the beef being both juicy and tender, but also well seasoned and charred very well. It had a fair degree of herbs in there, but crucially these appeared to be fresh based, which is far superior to using dried. The bacon was great, thickly sliced and with a real rich smokey flavour. Draped over these was the cheddar, and it brought more richness to the mix. Chuck in the rather sweet chutney, and there really wasn’t much the lettuce could do about things to balance this out.
Flavours were all there and have been maxed out, but this burger would really benefit from some restraint on the chutney, and also something acidic to cut through. Good house made pickles would do the job.
Onto the sides, and the chips were quite good – and plentiful – so this was another tick. The pork crackers were essentially their prawn siblings. Super light, super crunchy and seasoned with some chilli and salt for good measure. An interesting side that was quite enjoyable.
The bottom line is this really. The Moseley is a very cool venue and incorporates nicely into the beach side Glenelg vibe. Both the levels deliver on what they set out to achieve, the menu is interesting and has some well thought out twists on classic items, and the location is great. Factor in some really good service, and it’s doing pretty well for itself indeed.
As for the burgers, they both delivered pretty well, and with a small tweak the Moseley Burger could be a real star. But you know what – if you crave a big, rich burger after a day at the beach, and want to wash it down with a cold beverage (or so), then this could well be the ideal thing for you.
For us the sliders edge the main burger, but it could well be horses for courses. Both were pretty good, the venue is great and the location takes some beating. Just go there and enjoy something.
Moseley Burger 8.0
Note – we were invited to try out the burgers here, however this has not influenced our opinion in any way.